Coming back from Provinces to the City of Beijing again is kind of shock… no it is not a shock but it feels like you are leaving another life behind and start living your routine again. Start drowning into the jungle of the big city, drowning into the jungle of streets, houses, cars, bicycles, dust and noise far away from the oases we have found on our travel. Feels like you are lost again in between all of them and nothing around you is willing to take any notice of you.
.. or maybe I am not willing to notice my surrounding. I feel a bit trapped in this big city.
Beijing is too huge just to escape for a while from the crowds… there are people everywhere and everywhere you can see and hear their signs of civilization. It is like a big ant hill and I am somewhere in the middle… f…!!!! So I was quite happy that a friend of mine came visiting me and I got the grateful job as a tour guide around the country.
That was my chance to turn my back to the city. At least for while so I could refresh my batteries a bit and see the horizon for the first time since a few months only staring at house walls. Well, where to start to make it not too boring for you.
Best thing you first get something to drink and a map of China that you can follow through the wild wild east.
China is a huge country and traveling here means to go over huge distances all the time. If you think an 8-hour bus ride over bumping roads is long then you shouldn’t do something like this. Anyway, let’s start. Immediately after the 10-hour flight of my friend Katja from Germany we drove of by overnight train to a small but well-preserved town called Pingyao 600km southwest of Beijing. It’s really small for China. It only got 40. 000 citizens.
But this city is something special. The old part is still fully surrounded by the old city wall and the streets are like China 100 years ago. There are still the old style houses with their small shops in the ground floor, the vendors on the street selling everything from meat over shoes to spices and clothes and many tiny food stalls where you can buy every Chinese delicacy you like to have. But mostly you don’t want them anyway. Chicken hearts, meat which was already has been for 3 days in the hot sun, all kind of inner organs and so on is not really making me feel hungry at all.
Fortunately you can go in one of the small restaurants where you don’t need to see what the chefs are cooking in the back. But that’s life there. And life there means also the dirt on the street, the dust in the air and the busy life of the people rushing through the narrow lanes between the houses. Kids are playing and shouting “Hello” at any foreigner they can see, old woman in dirty clothes are sitting behind their goods they want to sell, while men with lined faces are playing Chinese chess, smoke and talk. It got a kind of peaceful atmosphere, like a world in it’s own.
So we were wandering around looking in every corner, through the wooden gates of the houses and were trying to avoid the bicycles and the buckets of dirt water people sometimes spilled out of their home. In Chinese cities you have to be more carefully where you step on than when you are walking in the mountains. All the time we were followed by the vendors who tried to sell us every piece of scrap they have. The things they have are “of course” all over 100 year old and no fake products so that they would give as a good price because we are looking so friendly. Well, it is everywhere the same story.
Chinese want money. That counts first I guess it also comes before the family. The nicest part was when we wanted to make a picture of a kinder garden. Suddenly the kids saw us and ran down to the old rusty irony gate where they all were standing looking at us, and everyone tried to be in the front row. They were pushing each other and shouting, laughing and staring. It was such a funny picture and than they also started to sing a song for us. We didn’t understand, but I hope it wasn’t against us…. like “go away, it is our city! ” or “we don’t like foreigners! ” Well, but I don’t think so.
Our attempt to give them a show as well failed because of not knowing any song in his full length and our from the dust of China marked smoky voice. After discovering the town for nearly 10 sweating hours it was time for our train to Xian. We weren’t lucky at all. Tickets for sleeper and seats were already sold out, so we just got standing tickets and we prepared to fight for some seats. The train is just a slow train and stops at every station, the weather was hot and the air in the carriage was awful, but we got seats. It’s a special experience if you are traveling like this through the country.
You are really in close contact to the Chinese and everyone is staring at you, touching you, asking personal questions right away but also friendly, at least some of them were. While sitting there with almost no space to move the baby opposite of me was thinking about doing a business. But the toilet was far away and just a small business it also just could do in the aisle the parents were thinking. But my look at the parents let them decide to go to toilet first as long as there is time. Once, the time run out and we got a chocolate similar but not as good smelling pile of something on the seat…. well, what you wanna do about it.
You smile!!! But Katja felt worst and worst. Even that she had a window seat she said she can not stand it anymore and need to go to a carriage with an air-conditioning. Inside here the air was as heavy as a mountain on your head and the crowd made it smell like everything you can think of in this situation. But to change the carriage is a problem because the beds were all sold out as the conductors told us. So we just brought her to the restaurant and let her there. That’s of course against the rule and some of the staff got really pissed of. But since we are foreigners we got some better position.
That’s the advantage in China. It is sometimes really helpful. So we just ignored them. But one our later they really moved us away and since my friend could go back we just brought her to the first sleeper class and put her in the aisle over there. You guess right, that pissed of the stuff over there, but we didn’t move and they couldn’t put us of the train without getting big trouble. So she was there for another 3 hours until finally the staff gave us a whole compartment with four beds. I wonder why suddenly there were places free. Anyway, I was never that much shouting and Chinese before, but it helps.
So we survived the most awful train ride I ever had and were welcomed in Xian by extremely hot weather. Xian is the place of the Terracotta Army. A place with over 2000 years history, but the city itself is now a typical modern Chinese city = nothing special. Only the Muslim quarter with the mosque could keep its character. Quiet, relaxed and friendly people enjoying the afternoon in the shade of the buildings or trees. More or less it was the same picture as in pingyao, but much more cleaner. The Terracotta army itself is outside the town and a tourist magnet. It’s amazing how many people are going there.
One bus is following another and then you just see the crowd rushing out and get lead into the halls of interest by a guide with a little colored flag. Afterwards I want say, that the outside looked more impressive then the inside with the warriors. I don’t think I need to describe much because everybody of you have seen it already thousand times on pictures. So the soldiers are standing there and you walk over a platform around them. I don’t know I couldn’t really get the atmosphere of that. If you think about the work they did 1000 years ago it is impressing, but when you now look at them you can’t feel much of that.
I was a bit disappointed, because I thought it is more the just holes in the earth with some clay soldiers. And I wasn’t the only one who got those thoughts. So we left the Xian to Chengdu the next day. There was nothing else to do. This time we went by plane, since the tickets were sold out again and no one of us was in the mood for another 20 hours half standing half sitting in the train, fighting for oxygen, dealing with shitting babies and unfriendly staff. Chengdu was only a stopover before we got to the mountains in Songpan.
We just hanged out a bit, walked around, bought a bottle of water every 500m just to sweat everything out immediately again and tried to relax from the almost subtropical climate in a park. Once again it is a typical Chinese town although because of the climate not as dry and dusty as Xian in the north. The next morning we were heading for our 10-hour bus ride. This time still over asphalt roads winding up the hills along a wild river which made his way through the curving valley until we reached Songpan on 2300m altitude. The drive had some nice views over big mountains, deep valleys, crystal clear lakes and horrible crash possibilities.
The driver must have seen the formula 1 race the day before. He took great effort in reaching new top speed records and over passing trucks with or without oncoming traffic. More than once my heart felt into my trousers and remained there for quite a while. Songpan is a former Tibetan village in a valley surrounded by grassy mountains and a beautiful river is running through. Now it is occupied by Chinese mostly. The old wooden houses of the Tibetans, almost Bavarian style, are still to find on the outer side of the town where they live in even worst conditions then Chinese do.
The people are getting their water still from the river 2km away and the inside of the houses is really basic. Mostly built from wood, there are 2 rooms at the ground floor (kitchen and living/working room) and under the roof is the sleeping place or the storage for all kind of goods respectively. There is also a wooden floor and dust everywhere. It’s strange because most of them have a satellite TV, which is in a sharp contrast to their lifestyle. They mostly are farmers and have also some goats and yaks. Basically they live from that they earn a day. But some of them make some money from the tourist. They are offering horse treks.
That we did for 3 days. Riding on a horse through deep forests, up on steep hills, over the ridge of the mountains, along the rivers through sometimes narrow valleys or wide open grass lands under the blue sky and the burning sun at this height, left a feeling about the freedom of the people which are living and working there. Everything is quiet apart from sound of light wind, the murmur of the river, the tinkling bells of the yaks and the occasional shouts of their owners, the droning of the million flies around our horses (which was really annoying) and the heavy breath of our horses when we are going up the mountains… fter all maybe not that quiet, but different sounds to the cities with their cars, horns and million of people.
Relaxing sounds. So we were riding for a few hours until we reached our camping place for the night. It was in the middle of nowhere. A small stream guarded by some bushes ran through the meadow and our guides built up the tends behind some trees, let the horses mind their own business and started cooking our delicious vegetarian evening meal which consist of potato, tomato and lots of other green stuff… yummy. It was the most delicious meal I had so far in China.
While our guides were cooking we discovered the area around. We crossed the river went through a small forest and hit a beautiful turquoise colored lake. On one side restricted by fir trees on the other side by some rocks where the lake water felt into a cave and run out of sight. Further up we saw some small waterfalls but couldn’t reach them because of the wild area. Muddy ground and thick bushes didn’t let us go through. So we just laid down on a meadow in the middle of thousand of different flowers in all shapes and colors and watched the white clouds moving over the blue sky above us.
It was just a perfect day and since I have been in China the first day for me I could enjoy pure nature. The next morning it was a bit painful to get up. My back hurt but I wasn’t sure if was from the riding or the branches we slept on. Apart from that I slept wonderful. After having a not less delicious breakfast we were off for the next ride. First up the mountain just to go down again on the other side, through a long valley spotted by tiny villages and Tibetan stupas on our way. The people here are different to the Han Chinese.
They are also interested in you, but watch you more from distance and they SMILE. Han Chinese are for some reason not able to do so. So it was such a great feeling to look at their dark brown shriveled faces with that glowing eyes full of warmth and to response their smile with a smile and a nodding head. Now I knew why I was here. Even that I didn’t spoke to them we felt the hospitality of those people. And I miss that so much in Beijing. After an endless seeming ride through untouched nature we finally arrived at our new camping side.
Another group was already there and their guide was busy in preparing the food for the evening. A little bit up the road is a wonderful lake area where crystal clear turquoise water is running over lime terraces through the wood, as our guide said. Immediately we were off to go there, but got back in memory that we are not that far from civilization at all, when we had to pay the entrance fee. That’s typical Chinese. Fortunately no people at all were there and we could enjoy the walk over a wooden path up to the terraces until…. the sun was gone behind some dark clouds and it started to rain.
Rain is nothing bad. I love rain. I love it even more when I have the right clothes with me. I love the sound of the raindrops falling on the ground, in the water, tripping from the leafs of the trees, plashing against the window… but I hate it when I don’t have the right light for making my pictures. So we were waiting in a small hut, watching the rain falling from the trees into the pools and hoping it will pass by soon. Actually it wasn’t bad at all. There was no one around everything was peaceful and looking kind of asleep, like everything was waiting for the rain to stop.
Two hours later nothing has chanced so I just took some pictures of the still impressive looking pools and we used the time when the rain got a bit lighter to go back to our camp. In the meanwhile the rain stopped fully and 4 foreigners and 3 guides were sitting around the campfire, eating, drinking hot black tea and were talking about this and that. We all were covered in our Tibetan jackets. It is getting cold in the night if you are that high up. So we were watching the fire and having the beer of the day before we finally went to sleep and it started to rain again.
I slept wonderful with my head lying on the saddle of my horse and listening to the rain. The night before I was wondering why there was such a strong horse smell. Now I knew. The next morning was chilly and not sunny at all. Clouds where hanging at the slopes of the mountains covering the peaks, but made it somewhat more interesting instead only having blue sky. It was not cold and light drizzle was in the air. Anyway I felt comfortable with that and enjoyed the mystic atmosphere. Back on the back of my black 12 year old friend I was still kind of sleepy, but woke up when we had to ride through a wild river.
My horse enjoyed it and started playing around while punching with his forefoot into the water making my shoes including the inside as wet as the river itself. It took me quit a while to convince him that he is too old for this and he should behave like a grown up. Although I think he will do this again as soon as he gets a chance to. Once again we were fighting our way through wet bushes, over rocky paths and along small streams up and up another mountain. But the view was fantastic not least because of the weather. The air was as clear as a crystal so we were able look for miles into the country.
Some peaks were still covered by clouds and some parts were shining in the sun. Below us in the valley we could see the villages and their fields as terraces on the hills and further away an eagle was circling over the sky. So I enjoyed riding on the ridge having this fantastic view and watching the tents of the herdsmen and their yaks whose are living for the whole summer period from June to August up here. I asked myself how they are going to wash themselves since there are no rivers, but decided that this question is not important at the moment considering our hygienic situation for the last 3 days.
I felt a bit sad at this time because I didn’t know when again I would feel so much freedom and peace. When again I can stand on the top of a mountain and feel this incomprehensible vastness of this huge area where is one mountain next to each other and the forces of the nature are doing what ever they want. Then I feel small and suddenly realize who is ruling on this planet. It’s a great feeling and a pity to see what human beings are doing every day. Back in town those thoughts give way the essential question for “where to get food from? ” and “Do they have hot shower today? (they didn’t have).
I am back in normal life. But this horse trek was really something else. Actually now we planed to go back to Chengdu and then to Chongqing to catch a boat through the Three Gorges, the most famous Chinese attraction after the Great Wall, which will be not that impressive anymore after the finished the damn dam. But that means we are going back into the heat, back to the noise and back to million of people. So our decision was more than easy and we went off going further into this mountain area. This time of course by bus again.
Only the bus didn’t look that nice anymore, but we hoped it would do the job to our next destination Langmusi. They bus ride over the bumpy dirt road lead us first going further up and then over wide open grasslands and green mountains in the background touching the dark blue sky. All few miles were another family living in a black square tent and their yaks standing outside chewing the grass. Each family can have about 50 to 800 yaks, but most of them own about 100. In addition they have some sheep, goats and of course horses. Everyone knows how to ride.
The kids starting as soon as they can hold themselves on the horse and even don’t need a saddle. They also only spent the summer here, but the conditions are a bit better than the conditions of their colleagues on the ridge of the mountains. The usually have a place not far away from a river. In the winter they are going back into the villages further down where they have a house and the yaks still can find food. The kids are also not going to school. Partly because of the parents need them to work and partly because school costs money in China. The school fee is different in every city but some can’t effort it.
So those kids have no chance as also to become a herdsman or to find one of the bad paid jobs in the town. Without knowing about this hard and basic life it gives the impression of a very romantic way of living in this amazing beautiful landscape and I got a bit jealous about the so easy seeming life. In the morning you get up and eat. Usually it is Tsampa, bread and black tea. Tsampa is a typical Tibetan food basically made of wheat, sugar and some other spices. This all you give into a cup of black tea with yak butter. After the powder soaked up the tea you form little pieces with your hand and start chewing on them.
It’s really tasty!!! We always got offered Tsampa when we were invited from local people. Unfortunately it did not happen this time. But back to the herdsmen, after breakfast you take care about the animals and if time ride with horse or just stare into the country and go to bed when it is getting dark. But if it were that good why so many young people try their luck in the cities? Another story – In the bus one of the herdsmen, who we picked up, told me that he is bringing his wife to the doctor because she has pain in the heart and the stomach – and still 5 hours to go over those bumpy roads.
After 8 hours in the bus we made two third of the way but the town we were now wasn’t worth to stay any minute. A few years ago it must have been a nice cosy Tibetan village as I heard, but then they started to make it more beautiful according to the Chinese taste of architecture and urban planning. Now there is a wide dirty asphalt road, left and right covered by ugly standardized houses, like you can find everywhere in China. But it is not easy to get an opinion about this. Only a few say they don’t like this.
Most of the people say it is modernization and improves their living standards, which is partly true if you see the houses they lived in before. But they are destroying the character of a whole town and make it to just one town under million. I think people haven’t realized that yet and the Chinese government doesn’t want them to do. Since it is the final stop of the bus we had to organize a car, but could get the price any cheaper and paid at the end way too much for what I think. At least it was a brand new 1-month old pick up truck we got to hire and it was worth to do so.
Just leave that behind. Our driver was in the mid thirties, married and has got 2 kids (6 months and 4 years old). He belonged to the Hui Chinese which mostly live in this area and further west. Before he started his own business he was driving big transport trucks from Chengdu to Lhasa. The journey took 10 days with three drivers who always changed every 8 hours. He liked it, although it sometimes was dangerous because of rain, snow and earth slides and the old Chinese made trucks often broke down. Now he said Chinese companies have taken over this business and he had to look for something else.
So he is doing the 5-hour ride almost everyday, mostly with tourists (they bring the most money) but also for local people. Landscape hasn’t changed and over a well known bumpy dust road we were almost flying through the grassland, which now was touched into a golden light by the setting sun. As far as the eyes could see was just grass and spotted with thousand of black dots – the yaks. It is incredible to be able to see the grasslands with some rolling hills meeting the sky on one side and huge mountains with rocky icy peaks towering above on the other side.
And our tiny car was in the middle between. From above you would just have seen the dust behind it. Somewhere in the distance a few yellow stripes took my attention. I asked our driver and he told me that this are sand dunes. I never heard that there is a dessert in this area and I was asking him farther questions. He finally told me, that it started about 10 years ago and now it becomes more and more every year, but no one knows where the sand is coming from. For this you have to know that China has a big problem with desertification because of intensive farming, woodcutting and wasting water.
Especially in the north the strong wind during the winter is blowing away the naked soil and transports huge amount of sand into the middle of China. Every year China is loosing a huge area useable land because of this. Although by the government several programs have been launched to work against this (e. g. restrictions in farming, reforestation), the aim and the program itself sometimes are very doubtful. Soon the dunes were out of sight and it took another two hours to reach Langmusi in the dusk of the day.
Langmusi – a quiet peaceful village with two monasteries in the middle of mountains – according to the Lonely Planet the most Tibetan place outside of Tibet. But we were about 2 months late and first we were shocked when we saw… what did we see? It looked like a bomb did explode there, but it only was the road construction. Left and right the street the houses got cut to the new width of the street, like you set a line, take a knife and cut. The street itself was just muddy or dusty dirt (depends on the weather) and caterpillars were moving the soil from one side to the other.
It wasn’t really that what we was expecting to see. After recovering from the first shock we found the still standing famous Leisha Cafi??, named after the lady who is running the business. Now, the cafi?? is in the middle of the construction side, but hasn’t lost anything of its atmosphere. A tiny hut made of stones with inside just enough space for a leather sofa, a few chairs and a table in the middle. The kitchen right next to it has not got more space than two people just could turn around in it. Still it was amazing how many people can fit on maybe 10 square meter. The best about the cafi?? was the food, of course.
Here you can get everything the western travelers heart or stomach likes to have: coffee, pancake, omelet and most famous The Yak Burger. The biggest and most tasty burger with veggies and yak meat I ever had, and that for less than 2 Euro. So you don’t need to wonder why we didn’t go to any other restaurant during the 3 days we stayed. The night was freezing colt and the next morning it took the sun quite a while until she was burning down from the blue sky again. We were now on 3200 m altitude and sometimes when we were climbing up a small hill we already realized how hard it is to breathe, or are we just so badly out of shape.
I haven’t done much sport in the last months though. Langmusi itself was already awoken for a long time. The merchants are selling everything from yak butter, ba bao cha (8 treasure tea – a delicious tea with 8 different fruits) to clothes and handcrafted Tibetan swords, kids were playing with the pigs on the street and the women were getting the water from the parallel to the street running clear cold river. Smoke crawled out of the chimney of some houses and morning haze was still in the air, but vanished when the sun climbed higher and higher.
At the this time of the year the monks are celebrating a fest (but can’t remember the name) where they are going out of the monastery on the meadows, putting up tents, eat, sing and laugh. The fest is a kind of honoring the monks’ hard life they usually live. So they have 3 days of pure joy, but still have to pray a few times a day. Also monks from the surrounding monastery were coming. Some of them were arriving by bus, by truck or by horse but all of them in the typical red capes. It’s sometimes funny to see them even on a new modern motorbike or wearing sport shoes and having a mobile phone.
That takes away the myth around them and degrades them to normal person or students, what they actually are. Families who can effort it send their kids to the monastery for education. It’s a kind of prestige and always well seen by friends and neighbors to have a monk in the family. Also many people host a monk in their houses if there is no place in the monastery. Unfortunately I couldn’t really figure out what monks are doing apart from praying and studying letters. The little 15 year old kid I was talking to, couldn’t tell me much either. He just said that he is helping his brother who is attending one of the monasteries.
He just came here because of the summer break and use to live together with his parents in a village 4 hours by bus away. While talking to the kid we were walking around one monastery always up the hill, passing by prayer wheels, living house, small and big temple buildings. The temples usually have no windows and a colorful roof. On the top of the roof are 3 golden sculptures: in the middle the sun, left and right guarded by a kind of kneeing dear. It just looks like in the movies. The day past by strolling through the village, watching the mostly old pilgrims and the daily life of the citizens.
There wasn’t much to do though. Four old women in traditional old cloth, maybe 60 years old but looking like 90, were sitting in front of one of the temples in the dirt and were making prayer stones out of clay which have about 100 of little Buddha’s at the front. To do so one was preparing the clay. A real hard work, because she had to put water on and afterwards to hit the clay with a kind of a bat to make it soft. The two others were putting in clay into a form, put the form on a board and hit with a hammer on it, until the thought the pattern got on the clay.
The fourth one was collecting the finished plates and put them in the sun for drying. It was just amazing to see that this old ladies still were doing such a hard work. Probably their husbands were down in the village and having a smoke together. A maybe 10-year old boy tried to pull his little yak along the road, some monks played basketball in the backyard of a temple, woman were washing clothes in the river next to a prayer wheel running by water power (that’s environmental friendly, it even exists for wind power), a herd of goose were clucking on the field across and monks past by with smiling faces.
That’s it basically is. It is an ordinary day in an ordinary Tibetan village. Of course this is not enough for me and already when we arrived I was looking on the highest peak around – 4000m. So I knew where I have to have been before leaving again. I actually planed to see the sun rise from the top, but that meant I had to get up at 3 am and at this time I is really cold outside. So I moved my schedule and hoped I wouldn’t miss anything by starting later in the morning. And it was good to do so, because as I realized later I never had found the way up in the darkness.
It wasn’t a difficult area, but it was hard to find a way even in daylight. There were so many bushes that I needed quite a long time to go through this obstacle and I often need a break to catch my breath. But it was amazing. Once again thousand of flowers in different colors: red, blue, white, yellow, pink, orange and and and….. some times as small as the head of a needle, sometimes as big as tulip. Although I started when the peak was still covered in the clouds and the weather actually looked more like rain than sunshine the view over the land below was great and left a feeling of almost flying.
And I was lucky. The further up I got the less clouds were and finally I also could see the rocky peak of the highest mountain I will have been so far in my short life. Slowly I made my way up. I already let the bushes behind and was now walking up a steep meadow. In the meanwhile there were also less flowers and more and more moos appeared until I reached the border to the rocky part. I had to be careful because the limestone was kind of loose and didn’t give a good support to my shoes.
But only a few meters were between me and the summit with the prayer flags floating in the wind. The weather became better and better. The clouds lifted up and the sun was already shining in the valley beneath. Just another few steps and I was on the top. The highest mountain in around 200 km, which of course provides a fantastic view to the mountain range in the west, the village and soft rolling hills to the north, another high mountain massive to the east (still covered in clouds) and the wide open grassland with a shining lake to the south.
I don’t know how to describe how I felt in that moment, but it was incredible. I was the only one on the top of this mountain. Everything else was just so far away. Only the wind and the screams of the eagles I could here, which were circling through the air even below me. This birds are so majestic incredible big and it’s a amazing feeling when an eagle is just 10m in front of you crossing your way and even on the same level with you. It’s fantastic.
I never saw an eagle that close, I never felt so much freedom and peace and I never was so amazed. I can’t really find words for this. It is a unique experience. I finally sat down and were watching for hours into the country, enjoyed the warm sun on my back, the smell of grasslands blown up by the wind, the every time changing pattern of the countryside from the shadow of the clouds, followed with my eyes the silver band of a stream running through the valley, enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere and tried to look behind the horizon… ehind the blue lake, behind the tiny road leading to meet with the sky in the far distance, behind the massive mountains rising up at the horizon, behind the clouds drifting over the endless blue sky, behind the eagle flying towards the sun. I think I was sitting there for about 3 or 4 hours when a grumble woke me up out of my thoughts and dark clouds and a stronger wind made me leave. I made my way down and felt satisfied. Also the starting rain made me feel good (didn’t need to take pictures at this time) and arrived just in time the hotel when the thunderstorm started.
Now the only thing I needed was just a Yak-Burger and a beer, which I immediately got – the end of a wonderful day. The end of this journey as well, because time was running and we had to set out back to Beijing. This time everything was just normal. First 12 hours in a bus leaving the mountains behind us and then, after not having any problems buying train tickets, another 24 hours on the train with air condition and bed. Sometimes traveling in China can be so easy. And if you didn’t fall asleep already you may sleep now, very deep and soundly… Good night and nice dreams!
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