This paper provides a brief background of ‘Birkenstock’, a shoe manufacturing company founded by Johann Adam Birkenstock in 1774, which has its headquarters in Germany. The company, which sells Birkenstocks, which is a type of footwear, is famous for its brand of shoes and sandals the world over. Birkenstock produces good quality sandals and shoes, and a variety of comfortable footwear with the utmost care which conform to the shape of the wearer’s feet. The paper also highlights the impact that the footwear industry has on the environment. The report also shows the sustainable practices that have been adopted by Birkenstock to protect the environment.
Birkenstock invented the Blue footbed and the deep cork footbed (Ashton 2018). “The footbed is based on the cast of a foot in the sand, ensuring the feet of the person feel as comfortable as possible for hours on end.” (Kolk 2016) The footbed consists of four different layers. The first layer of the shoe, that is the sole, has shock absorbing properties and absorbs shocks when the wearer is walking on the ground. After that, there are two layers of jute on top of the sole. At the end is the footbed, which is made up of sustainable material cork. The last layer of the shoe is the footbed line which is made from soft suede (Ashton 2018).
There are two types of Birkenstock footbed that is available in the market. They are normal and narrow. The moldings in the footbed support the tissues in one’s feet and provide the wearer with stability and support. The shoes that Birkenstock produces are also adjustable and therefore the footwear of Birkenstock can be adapted to fit the feet of the wearer. This is felt by the high level of comfort. A shoe should offer stability and protection to one’s feet, without constricting it. A shoe is said to fit well when it offers stability and protection to the wearer’s feet. Among the various factors that contribute to a great fit, shoe size is a crucial factor for a good fit. Adequate space must be present in the area where the toes are of a person. This is because as a person moves forward, the toes slide forward. Birkenstock creates footwear that promotes health and well- being and is a personification of comfort, durability and style. (Ashton 2018).
A person’s feet is connected to all parts of one’s body that helps one to walk upright. Choosing and wearing a wrong pair of shoes will lead to head, back and joint pain as well as create problems with the flow and circulation of blood. Thus utmost care should be taken to select the right footwear.
The makers of Birkenstock thought of a new idea, a new approach in shoe making. The idea was to create an insert that was flexible and supportive that made every shoe comfortable and also healthy. This gave rise to the iconic footbed. (Chen 2015)
The first sandal was made by Carl Birkenstock in the 1960s, using latex milk and cork with the help of an oven in his own home. The leather straps that were over a footbed could be adjusted, and it had a sole that was completely durable. (Chen 2015). After The Second World War (1939-1945) the Birkenstock sandals became immensely popular with the soldiers who were returning home after the war. The Birkenstock sandals became popular with the returning soldiers because of the extreme comfort and orthopedic support that they provided. The first athletic sandal produced by Karl Birkenstock which was named ‘Madrid’ also became popular among gymnasts because of its flexible footbed (Chen 2015).
The footwear industry has a negative impact on the environment and is detrimental to the environment as many toxic chemicals are released into the atmosphere. The toxic chemicals that are used in making shoes include chromium VI, phthalates, dimethyl fumarate, pentachlorophenol (Epstein 2018). When leather is left to decompose in the landfills, it leads to an emission of a lot of harmful gases because of the harmful chemicals used in the tanning process. Tanning may help to improve the stability of the leather used in making footwear, but it leads to the emission of chromium VI, which is extremely poisonous. To combat this, one should use magnesium chloride (Epstein 2018).
Biodegradable materials like wood and leather also produces a toxic gas called methane that contributes to the green house effect, if they are left to compost in landfills. The increasing scarcity of natural resources, in addition to rules, laws and legislation and landfill charges on what can be disposed of, have made shoe manufacturers aware and realize the need to adopt a sustainable approach towards manufacturing footwear. The toxic chemicals that are released are a threat to the environment as it harms both humans and wildlife that are exposed to them. Manufacturing shoes also leads to a large production of carbon dioxide, which creates a green house effect and leads to global warming. A large amount of chemicals and machinery are required to manufacture shoes. To power the machines many fossil fuels are used which produces toxic gases, which leads to a green house effect and consequently global warming. Global warming is extremely harmful as it heats up the earth’s atmosphere. (Epstein 2018) Coal is one of the fuels that are used and when coal is burnt, it produces carbon dioxide, which is harmful for the environment and leads to global warming. Transportation is yet another cause for global warming. Most companies manufacturing footwear tend to have their factories in third world countries because of the availability of cheap labour. Since these factories are set up far away, transportation through, airplanes, trains etc is required to deliver the goods from the factories to the retailers.
Chemicals that are used to manufacture shoes also have an extremely adverse effect on the environment. Chemical adhesives and tanning chemicals such as chlorinated phenols, chlorinated parrafins, and tribromphenol which are used during the process of making shoes are released into the atmosphere and water through industrial waste that emanates from large scale factories (Epstein 2018). These toxic ingredients have a harmful effect on animals that consume the infected water. The disposal of shoes also creates environmental hazards. When people throw away their shoes, it ends up in landfills and ends up contaminating the soil as well as contaminating the water as the chemicals that are used to make the shoes slowly starts to seep underground as the shoe starts to decompose. This has an extremely detrimental effect on both humans and wildlife because of biomagnification and bioaccumulation. (Epstein 2018) The animals and marine life that humans eat could have drunk the largely toxic water filled with impurities or eaten the plants that were contaminated. This can lead to a plethora of diseases, including cancer. Procuring shoes which are made out of toxic chemicals, and wearing them increases the chances of being contaminated and the workers manufacturing these kind of shoes in the factory are also affected. Workers suffer from intoxication due to the glue used in making shoes. These environmental factors, which are hazardous and detrimental to the environment, are creating a need for sustainable manufacturing and marketing of footwear. (Chen 2015)
In order to prevent these detrimental environmental impacts, a person can donate or recycle their own shoes so that their old shoes do not end up in landfills. By adopting sustainability principles, the footwear industry can help the environment by reducing the detrimental effect it has on the environment. Adopting sustainable principles at the product design stage is of utmost importance. One should reduce or completely eliminate the use of chemical adhesives to manufacture shoes because they contain hazardous and volatile substances like toluene and benzene and instead use water- based adhesives for bonding soles (Epstein 2018). Research conducted by SARTA has shown that water-based adhesives as opposed to chemical adhesives, can be used for bonding soles, can be used in all kinds of factories, big or small, and are effective regardless of climatic conditions (Romeo 2014). By using solvent-based systems, there is a reduced risk to the health of the workers working in the factory as well. One can eliminate lining materials by creating smooth seamed uppers.
Design can also play an important part while designing and crafting shoes. Shoes can be designed in a way that when the pair gets old and will no longer be in use, the various components can be taken out. The parts of a shoe that can be easily separated can be recycled for use in the future. This can be done by using things that fit together or fit around one another nicely. Organic solvents used in primers, adhesives cause harm to the environment and is therefore best avoided. Where primers and adhesives prove indispensable, efforts have been made to destroy the solvent vapours converting them into compounds that do not harm the environment. (Romeo 2014) Due to rising concerns over the depletion of ozone layer and due to an increase in laws and regulations, chemical solvents are increasingly being eliminated as they contain either polyurethane or polychloroprene polymers. Also, recycled rubbers and water based adhesives are replacing synthetic rubber, polyurethane and other synthetic materials in the manufacture of sneakers and other athletic and sports footwear (Epstein 2018) Chlorophenols used as preservatives for leather should also be used as sparingly as possible. According to a study conducted by the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation, people who tend to wear plastic shoes are at a greater risk for health concerns. The Swedish Society for Nature Conservation found high levels of phthalates in the plastic shoes and sandals that they tested. Phthalates used in the manufacturing of plastic and rubber shoes and sandals, is a chemical compound that is used primarily as a plasticizer to increase the flexibility of plastic. Phthalates should also be used sparingly as they cause infertility, problems in the endocrine, problems in birth and also cancer (Epstein 2018). Nitrosamines used for the manufacturing of footwear made of rubber, like sandals and shoes also causes cancer. For leather, plastic and rubber footwear the use of desiccants while transportation helps to prevent the growth of mould. Some desiccants contain Dimethyl fumarate that are harmful and causes skin allergy and skin eruptions. One should try to avoid using Dimethyl fumarate and instead opt for alternative anti-mould agents (Chen 2015).
Birkenstock cares about the environment. They have always actively protected the environment by conserving nature and using natural resources sparingly and with utmost care. They produce products, which are made using sustainable and long lasting materials and are environment friendly. (Romeo 2014). By doing this, Birkenstock is contributing to the preservation of the environment for the future generations. The raw materials that they use like cork, jute, leather, natural latex, wool felt, copper and brass come from sustainable natural resources. Birkenstock understands that the protection of natural resources is one of the most pertinent issues of our times. For them sustainability is an expression of their corporate principles and culture (Epstein 2018).
Birkenstock was one of the first few shoe companies in the world who used water-based adhesives and reject chemical adhesives in its process of manufacturing shoes and sandals (Epstein 2018). Birkenstock uses natural latex for the bonding of the sole. It is used as a binding agent while making Birkenstock’s famous footbed. Natural latex is a renewable source, just like cork which is used by Birkenstock to make their sandals. Natural latex is collected from the resin of rubber trees. Natural latex acts as a shield for the rubber trees and protects them from bacteria and fungi. Rubber trees grow in tropical regions and when the trees are harvested, natural latex is collected in buckets (Epstein 2018). The process of harvesting trees is done when the trees are six years old. Natural latex is much better than synthetic latex and it is free from chemicals. Natural latex also has a lot of elasticity and high breathability (Romeo 2014).
One of the most important products that they use in the manufacture of their shoes and sandals is cork, a product that is both natural and sustainable, has high elasticity, offers a comfortable cushioning and has very good heat insulation. A cork has thin-walled cells that are dead and they are filled with air. The layer of the cork can be reproduced and can be harvested several times without causing any harm to the tree (Epstein 2018). Cork is obtained by taking off five centimeters of bark from the tree. One tree contributes hundred to two hundred kilograms of cork during its entire life. The bark that is removed, is cooked thoroughly in tanks to ensure that the cork is clean, following which it is cut into strips that is used to punch the bottle corks. Birkenstock sources majority of the cork from southern Portugal which is the world’s largest exporting region of cork. Oak forests in Portugal stretch over seven lakh fifty thousand hectares and are about eight percent of the total surface of the country (Romeo 2014).
Birkenstock also uses Jute, which is a renewable resource as well. Jute stabilizes the cork and latex core in the Birkenstock range of footwear. Jute also helps to regulate moisture in the Birkenstock shoes and sandals. Birkenstock embraces sustainability and is socially responsible, which is reflected in the fact that it uses natural resources to manufacture its range of footwear and complies with stringent environmental laws, rules and regulations (Pal 2014).
Birkenstock delivers what they promise. Their shoes are handcrafted, are made very well, are durable, comfortable and are functional. Protection of the environment is of vital importance at Birkenstock. They constantly strive to improve their products and their production processes. Their products last for a very long time, hence the problem of disposal of shoes causing a threat to the environment is minimized.
Birkenstock produces handcrafted sandals. Depending on the model, a sandal can undergo up to seventeen steps (Epstein 2018). The covered toe shoes reflecting the beautiful artisanship of centuries old tradition are made in Portugal. The shoes and sandals are made out of premium leather, wool felt, cork, natural latex, copper and brass (Epstein 2018). The shoes and sandals epitomizes comfort. Birkenstock makes shoes that are orthopedically inspired. Birkenstock makes excellent footwear and the wealth of experience has been passed down from one generation to the next.
Birkenstock carefully selects its raw materials for making their premium shoes and sandals. Whether it is soft leather, comfortable felt or cushioned cork, Birkenstock places great value in the highest quality, both when selecting the raw materials and when making their shoes (Epstein 2018). That is the reason they are always on the lookout for the latest materials and the most sustainable sources so that they are able to make shoes that are durable, sustainable and handcrafted with the utmost care. Birkenstock uses the best quality leather, which because of its gentle production, retains its natural and good properties. They also use good quality wool felt made from pure merino wool that helps keep feet nice warm and dry. Birkenstock also produces animal-free products like their proprietary synthetic materials Birko-Flor. Birko-Flor is made out of good materials and is gentle on the skin, is tear-proof and is easy to care for. In 2018, Birkenstone was honoured by People For The Ethical Treatment Of Animals (PETA) and bestowed with PETA’s Libby Award for being the “Most Animal-Friendly Shoe Company.” (Pal 2014). The leather that Birkenstock uses is of very high quality. While the raw hide material is a sustainable product, one should appropriately select the tanning and the processing chemicals. One should use natural tannages such as vegetable extracts, plant extracts and natural dyes in order to improve sustainability. Leather can also be replaced completely by sustainable textiles. (Pal 2014)
The materials that are used for uppers or lining are made out of petrochemicals and are unsustainable and therefore ought to be avoided. One should use natural based textiles such as jute, linen silk, coconut, flax, wool, bamboo and cashmere (Epstein 2018). Along with these products, one should also use recycled polyester, which is derived from plastic bottles for footwear. Recycled coffee grounds are also used as components for lining. Adhesives are used for binding the sole. Most of the adhesives used by shoe manufacturing companies contain solvents, instead of being water-based, are radiation cured or hot melts which poses a threat to the environment (Epstein 2018) One should use water-based adhesives instead of solvent-based adhesives. Synthetic products such as polyurethane foams are used in shoes to increase the comfort of the wearer. Synthetic rubber is often used as a sole material. The use of natural rubber, though expensive as compared to synthetic rubbers, should be used since it not only improves the quality of the finished product but also improve the sustainable profile. It also gives one the option to use natural fillers like rice husks.
Conclusion
Producing sustainable footwear which is a combination of aesthetics and performance should be the ultimate objective of all shoe manufacturing companies. Nike has developed an application to help designers assess their impact on the environment. Nike also grinds discarded training shoes into pellets that are used to level running tracks. Some examples of Nike’s sustainable initiatives include FlyKnit and Colour Dry Technologies (Chen 2015). Nike actively takes part in recycling as well. Gucci has also joined the bandwagon by manufacturing and selling shoes that are made from bio-plastic, a biodegradable material instead of petrochemical plastic. Puma also manufactures biodegradable and recyclable shoes and bags in collaboration with Cradle to Cradle institute. Adidas hopes to reduce water usage, paper usage and energy usage and use sustainable cotton by 2020. Adidas has also collaborated with Parley in order to save the ocean. Adidas launched a line of products that have been made by using plastic taken from the ocean to manufacture sneakers and apparels. Reebok a division of Adidas has also introduced shoes that are plant based and are produced by sustainable materials.
These kind of innovations need to be done on a larger scale, by all shoe manufacturing companies if they are to have a positive impact on the environment. Shoe manufacturing and production companies should mitigate toxic chemicals while manufacturing shoes and shoe manufacturing companies should use raw materials like cork, jute, leather, natural latex, wool felt, copper and brass that come from sustainable natural resources.
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