A reversible garment can be defined as a garment that can be worn from both sides since either way it gives a fashionable appearance (Shaid, Wang & Padhye, 2016). The garments or clothes which are commonly made reversible are shirts, trousers, skirts, jackets, hats, sweaters together with vests. These reversible clothes contain some features which are a thicker overall fabric, lack of tags, buttons on both sides along with different kinds of stitching unlike other types of garments (Shaid, Wang & Padhye, 2016). This essay will give explanations about the time in which the design or style of the reversible clothing commenced, how this style started, what its purpose was when it began and its purpose to date. Moreover, it will explain about the first known designer along with other designers who utilized this technique of reversible garment and what the design serves.
The reversible garments started long ago although the people who wore the first reversible jacket are not known there exist biblical records of shepherds wearing them (de Sayavedra, 2014). What has been clear is that the adoption of the reversible styles started in Asia before the rest of the world. The Obi, a large sash around the middle of a kimono has commonly been made double-sided since at least the 17th century (Hall, 2018) and during the 19th century in Japan, a reversible jacket known as hikeshibanten was worn by firefighters. The ascent of the mandarin jacket which is known as a reversible jacket named after the scholars of imperial China its popularity and versatility of reversible clothing were first combined during the mid-20th century to make the reversible jacket opted by many designers (Shing & Ko, 2014).
The firefighter’s coat also known as the hikeshibanten jacket, for instance, was made in the Edo period in Japan (Renzoni, 2015). These firefighter’s coat was reversible, and the design was on the interior of the jacket which was only visible when the layer was turned inside out. A giant spider with an endearing face looms over the shoulder of the coat where it hovers menacingly over an abandoned go board. The jacket was designed from a story of a warrior hero who was sick and resting in bed when he was visited by a priest who was a giant spider (Renzoni, 2015). The warrior was Minamoto no Yorimitsu, and the giant spider was tsuchigumo. Minamoto no Yorimitsu being smart saw through the disguise and attacked the spider using his sword wounding him. His four attendants known as the Four Heavenly Kings were playing a game of go while guarding him and leaped up to track the spider back to his den (Renzoni, 2015).
This firefighter jacket shows the moment when the go game was abandoned with tsuchigumo retreating to his web. Furthermore, the human figures in the story are removed from the design of the jacket, and the firefighter takes their place symbolically (Renzoni, 2015). The firefighter became imbued with Minamoto no Yorimitsu’s extraordinary powers as a warrior hero, and the design worked as a talisman to protect the firefighter from danger. In Edo, firefighting was an especially important occupation, and the job was dangerous and glamorous, valorized as a crucial masculine exemplar in Edo (Renzoni, 2015). While these firefighter jackets were for a real, practical and perilous job, they were also imbued with a sort of glamour which assists in explaining why such an effort was taken to dye the jackets with symbolic designs. After battling a fire, the coats would be worn reversed to make the model visible, a stunning effect which visually connected the clothing to success along with survival (Renzoni, 2015).
For instance, the reversible hikeshibanten jackets were objects of both use and beauty and hidden personal importance to the wearer (Renzoni, 2015). For those reversible garments which were worn by the shepherds according to the biblical records like the jacket was made to have a soft, warm side which would be used during cold days and a smooth side for when the weather had improved. On the contrary, when Karl Lagerfeld designed the reversible fur coat, his stand was against the anti-fur movement that created significant problems for the trade (Parker, 2016).
The purpose of the reversible garment for various people who like traveling is for packing light and expanding the potential of a wardrobe (Aranguren, Vergara & Rosselli, 2017). Moreover, it is used so that it can save suitcases space or the closet space and it is also used as an outfit change from office heading for after work happy moments due to the hectic work schedules which don’t allow some to go home and change hence saving time (Stamps & Golombisky, 2018). Reversible clothing lowers the bills as it reduces the laundry expenses and it is good for the environment, and also they provide great value since they are made with the highest quality materials.
Furthermore, the purpose of the reversible garment is to make life less stressful and more efficient by saving time along with effort since during cleaning together with packing only a few garments are cleaned (Iannilli, 2014). Another purpose of reversible clothes is to lower the budget since less cash will be spent on buying a reversible cloth which can be worn more than twice rather than purchasing several clothes to wear only once hence some income is saved (Iannilli, 2014).
The first know designer who used the technique of reversible garment was Karl Lagerfeld who began collaborating on designs in 1962 (Parker, 2016). Karl Lagerfeld is a German creative director, caricaturist, and artist living in Paris. Through the relationship of Karl Lagerfeld with Fendi the Roman fashion house, Fendi was best recognized for the fur coats since they released reversible jackets which could be worn either leather side out or fur side out (Parker, 2016). More presently, Karl Lagerfeld covered an entire fur coat with woven mesh and created fully reversible fur coats. Apart from the reversible fur coat Karl Lagerfeld is also known for designing the black reflective panel jacket together with the reversible Faux leather Tote at Lord and Taylor (Parker, 2016).
There are various designers who used this method of the reversible garment, but some of them include Giorgio Armani, Helen Clarkson, and Grace Chuang along with Eliza Scarborough. Helene Clarkson as a designer and after being frustrated by lack of multi-purpose, wrinkle resistant clothing suitable for both business meetings in the day and elegant evenings out she designed a line of apparel particularly for the sophisticated traveler and the carry on suitcase. The line was founded in 2014 by Helene Clarkson with the objective of assisting ladies to look and feel great while traveling (Stamps & Golombisky, 2018).
On the other hand, designer Eliza Scarborough who is the deputy editor and fashion director at a&e magazine created reversible tops, handbags, and skirts (Chang, 2017). Also, designer Giorgio Armani an Italian fashion designer made reversible ladies’ clothes at Neiman Marcus and also designed Men’s calfskin leather reversible belt black brown which was created in Italy (Iannilli, 2014). Alexander McQueen a British fashion design and couturier who worked as chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001 designed the reversible hibiscus and skull scarf along with reversible leather shearling jacket (Burstein, 2016). Moreover, Grace Chuang has been creating unique Asian embroidery jackets and accessories, and her first collection was reversible silk jacket with hand floral embroidery (Aranguren, Vergara & Rosselli, 2017).
A reversible garment like a jacket keeps the skin in a comfortable temperature whatever the weather and could save energy by keeping people away from the thermostat (Mattila, 2014)). Furthermore, it provides an appealing appearance especially when it is displayed in different dimensions as one is not able to recognize it when used more than once. There are several and different places where a reversible cloth can be used. For instance, a garment can serve as a travel garment and also be used as a nightdress by wearing it inside out.
Conclusion
The reversible garments started a long time ago as per biblical records, but the known people are the Asians who are believed to have begun its adoption. Since the passage of reversible garment, life seems to have become easy as less time and effort is needed for changing along with laundry. Also, they become a big deal during the cold and hot weather seasons, and the budget is lowered as only a few clothes can be used in many outfits. From the discussion, Karl Lagerfeld is recognized as the first known designer to have created the reversible garment although there exist several others who designed these reversible clothing such as Helene Clarkson, Eliza Scarborough, Grace Chuang, Giorgio Armani, and Alexander McQueen.
References
Parker, C. J. (2016). Human acceptance of 3D printing in fashion paradox: Is mass customization a bridge too far?. WIT Transactions on Engineering Sciences, 113, 373-380.
Iannilli, V. M. (2014). Retailing Made in Italy: An Evolutionary Reading towards Emerging Paradigms. Fashion Practice, 6(2), 201-220.
Shing, K., & Ko, C. (2014). The Development of Academic Dress in China. Transactions of the Burgon Society, 14(1), 7.
de Sayavedra, M. L. (2014). 2 Rustic Culture and the Invention of the Spanish People. The Spanish Arcadia: Sheep Herding, Pastoral Discourse, and Ethnicity in Early Modern Spain, 75.
Burstein, J. (2016). The September Issue: Excess and Austerity in Fashion. Modernism/modernity, 23(1), 219-231.
Renzoni, G. (2015). Spun: Adventures in Textiles: Denver Art Museum, Denver, CO, USA May 19–September 22, 2013. Design and Culture, 7(2), 251-253.
Hall, J. (2018). Digital Kimono: Fast Fashion, Slow Fashion?. Fashion Theory, 22(3), 283-307.
Shaid, A., Wang, L., & Padhye, R. (2016). The thermal protection and comfort properties of aerogel and PCM-coated fabric for firefighter garment. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 45(4), 611-625.
Mattila, H. (2014). Yarn to Fabric: Intelligent Textiles. In Textiles and Fashion (pp. 355-376).
Aranguren, C., Vergara, C., & Rosselli, D. (2017). Wolfskin Fleece Night Jack Blue Edmonton Jacket 7FwUSOq-1spruch. com. Wolfskin Fleece Night Jack Blue Edmonton Jacket 7FwUSOq-1spruch. com, 28(4), 709.
Stamps, J. F., & Golombisky, K. (2018). Woman as Product Stand-In. Feminist Perspectives on Advertising: What’s the Big Idea?, 239.
Chang, W. C. (2017). Fashion illusions: the hipster culture of fashion consumption. Asian Journal of Social Sciences & Humanities Vol, 6, 4.
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